If you ask a group of people if they have discovered their calling in life, you would be sure to get mixed responses. Finding a life path that feels satisfying, purposeful, and suitable is easier said than done. But for Stephanie Tyson and Vivian Joiner, they found theirs at times they weren’t even looking.
Tyson and Joiner opened Sweet Potatoes restaurant on Trade Street in 2003 after meeting in Washington D.C, each having exposure to the restaurant industry. At the time, Joiner was working as a manager for a number of fast food restaurants. Tyson was studying to be a chef at the Baltimore International College, after a stint filling as a manager at a pizzeria in North Carolina.
“Stephanie swore that was the last time that would ever happen. From there, she enrolled in the accelerated culinary program at Baltimore International College and never looked back,” said Joiner.
The two women split all responsibilities right down the middle with Joiner, the manager, creating the “party” in the front of the restaurant and Tyson, the main chef, in the kitchen creating the dishes that have become the heart and soul of the restaurant.
Tyson has since written two cookbooks Soul Food Odyssey and Well, Shut My Mouth! Each is a testament to what truly makes her happy – her familial Southern roots.
When the two women started their restaurant, they originally set out to create a space that feeds their customers their idea of Southern soul food. Tyson and Joiner wanted the cuisine to be representative of who they were.
“Southern is so much more than ‘country.’ It is elegant and comforting for the spirit, just like the jazz music we have playing throughout our restaurant,” said Joiner.
The restaurant is a bustling space adorned with a wooden bar that evokes a sense of old world class that complements the jazz music that fills the room. Most of the dishes on the menu are reflective of all Tyson’s influences from both her mother and Joiner’s father. The menu includes a 3-Cheese Macaroni & Country Ham Soufflé, Fried Chicken and Waffles, Pan of Sweet Potato Cornbread, and BBQ Shrimp and Grits.
Five years ago, Sweet Potatoes restaurant moved from its original location about one block north in pursuit of a bigger space so that the establishment could really grow. The current space has about 70 seats in comparison to the old location that had 60. Additionally, the location on Trade Street has patio seating. Joiner and Tyson were keen on maintaining the same atmosphere with little variation to their menu.
In addition to the move, Tyson and Joiner opened Miss Ora’s Fried Chicken right next to Sweet Potatoes. Miss Ora’s is named after Tyson’s grandmother, Ora Porter, who taught her a lot about food and cooking in a general sense. It is temporarily closed due to staff shortages as a result of the coronavirus pandemic. Furthermore, Sweet Potatoes is only open Wednesdays through Saturdays with reduced hours because of the limited staff.
“Before COVID-19, we had about 45 staff members. Now, we have a total of 12 staff members. When someone takes a day off, it really affects us to the point of closure at times,” said Joiner.
After 19 years, the restaurant has continued to evolve into a community that cares for one another. Constructing a community for Joiner is “like a good stew.” It is an integral part of the restaurant’s ability to run smoothly.
“After working here for about a month and a half, I can confidently say that Vivian is by far one of the most refined people I have ever met. She exudes elegance and grace in everything she does,” said Stephnaie Whittington, a waitress at Sweet Potatoes. “Joiner takes pride in each and every task she does with the best of her ability. Her faith in God is a driving force behind her work.”
Wake Forest University student Ila Kacker frequents the restaurant almost every Thursday after her evening classes. “The dynamic between the staff members is lively. They joke around with each other in a respectful, professional manner,” said Kacker.
Creating an atmosphere in which the customers feel welcome and nourished both physically and emotionally is a key objective that the owners have set out to achieve, Joiner said.
The staff functions as a family. At times, a dysfunctional one but nevertheless one that looks out for each other and is there for each other beyond the walls of a restaurant, said Joiner. “We have cried together and laughed together. We do everything with each other.”
